Starter Locs 101: What to Expect in the First 6 Months
The ugly stage is real, but it is worth it. Here is your survival guide to the first half-year of your loc journey.
Starting your loc journey feels exciting until week three hits and suddenly your coils are fuzzy, your twists are slipping, and you’re questioning every decision that led you here.
Relax. This is all normal.
This is your month-by-month roadmap for the first six months—what will happen, why it happens, and how to keep your locs healthy during the messy stages.
Before Month 1: What “Starter Locs” Really Are
Starter locs aren’t locs yet—they’re temporary shapes (coils, twists, braids, or instant locs) that your hair will slowly mat into. They are delicate, they can unravel easily, and they require gentle care, not heavy products or constant manipulation.
Your goals in this stage:
- Keep your roots clean
- Reduce unraveling
- Prevent buildup
- Start a routine you can maintain long-term
- Protect your scalp’s natural pH (4.5–5.5) for healthy locking
Month 1–2: The Unraveling Phase
This is the stage where people panic the most—and the stage that sends them to YouTube searching “how to lock hair faster.”
Here’s what actually happens.
What You Will See
- Frizz everywhere
- Unraveling at the ends
- Loose roots
- Puffiness after washing
- Parts disappearing
All of this is part of the early locking process. Your hair must frizz to tangle. Without frizz, locs cannot form.
What NOT to Do
- Do not retwist every week
– Over-retwisting causes root thinning through constant tension. - Do not use beeswax to “fix” unraveling
– Beeswax is hydrophobic, doesn’t wash out, and traps lint and dirt deep inside starter locs. - Do not scrub your hair aggressively
– Let shampoo run down the shaft.
What You SHOULD Do
Wash Every 2–4 Weeks
This keeps the scalp clean without unraveling everything.
Use Light, Water-Soluble Products Only
Aloe-based gels, rose water, and lightweight oils work best for this stage.
Cover Your Hair at Night
Use a satin bonnet or scarf to control frizz and keep your parts visible.
Accept the Mess
Starter locs are not supposed to look “finished.” Let the process work.
Month 3–4: The Budding Phase
This is where the magic starts.
What You Will See
- Puffy “buds” forming along the shaft
- Frizz that won’t flatten
- Hair beginning to tangle internally
- Locs gaining weight and shape
- Shrinkage (yes, your hair may get shorter)
Budding is the earliest sign that your hair is locking.
What NOT to Do
- Don’t pick at bumps or buds
- Don’t try to smooth out loops
- Don’t force symmetry—locs mature unevenly at first
What You SHOULD Do
Hydrate Daily
A simple rose water + aloe mix keeps the hair soft and prevents breakage.
Retwist Every 4–6 Weeks
This maintains neat roots without damaging your follicles.
Separate (“Pop”) Your Locs After Wash Day
Prevents locs from marrying together.
Be patient
The budding phase is awkward—but it’s a major milestone.
Month 5–6: The Teenage Phase (“The Ugly Stage”)
Welcome to the wildest part of the journey.
Your locs now have some structure, but not enough weight or maturity to behave.
What You Will See
- Locs sticking straight out
- Frizz that looks permanent
- Uneven lengths
- Bulky sections
- Parts getting fuzzy
- Locs that shrink, swell, and change shape daily
This is “The Ugly Stage” everyone talks about.
Why This Happens
Your locs are locking at different speeds based on:
- Curl pattern
- Product use
- Washing frequency
- Thickness of each section
- Your natural sebum levels
As the internal matrix tightens, the outer hair becomes unpredictable.
What NOT to Do
- Don’t compare your locs to influencers
- Don’t switch locticians frequently
- Don’t panic and restart your locs
What You SHOULD Do
Train Your Locs at Night
Wear a satin durag or bonnet to encourage locs to “lay” as they gain weight.
Keep Your Scalp Clean
Use a residue-free shampoo every 1–2 weeks now that your locs are stronger.
Moisturize More Frequently
Teenage locs get dry as the internal fibers compress.
Stay Consistent With Retwists
Every 4–8 weeks is ideal depending on hair texture and preference.
How to Wash Starter Locs Without Unraveling
This is a common beginner fear. Here’s the safest method:
- Wet the scalp first
- Apply residue-free shampoo to the scalp
– Let suds run down the locs; don’t scrub the shaft. - Rinse thoroughly until water runs clear
- Squeeze out excess water
- Dry completely using a microfiber towel or hood dryer
– Sleeping on damp locs risks mildew (“loc rot”).
Bonus: Common Early Problems (And Quick Fixes)
1. Unraveling
Normal. Clip the ends while drying, or wait for budding to lock them in.
2. Itchy Scalp
Use tea tree or peppermint oil diluted in rose water.
3. White Residue After Drying
This is product buildup—switch to water-soluble gels only.
4. Flat Locs
Palm-roll while damp after washing.
5. Locs Marrying Together
Separate gently after every wash.
The Starter Loc Survival Checklist
- Wash every 2–4 weeks
- Retwist every 4–6 weeks
- Hydrate daily
- Avoid beeswax
- Use residue-free shampoo
- Avoid over-touching
- Sleep with a satin bonnet
- Let frizz happen
- Don’t restart your locs
- Trust the timeline
Pro Tip
“Take a picture of your hair every 2 weeks. You won’t notice the progress in real time, but side-by-side photos show how far you’ve come—and they keep you motivated through the teenage phase.”
Final Thoughts
The first six months of your loc journey are emotional. One day you love your locs, the next you want to cut them off. But if you stay patient, keep your scalp clean, and avoid heavy products, your hair will reward you with thick, healthy, mature locs.
Your journey is unique. Let your locs teach you patience, confidence, and consistency.
DreadWax Lab
Our team of loc experts and cosmetic chemists tests every product to the limit. We wash, retwist, and analyze so you don't have to guess.
